I cut a slice out of an OBD-I hosetrimmed the ridges and installed a T-fitting into it. Now it is time to sort out all of the hoses. Part numbers for the brackets are and Please note how the new brackets mount to different locations on the block.įront bracket mounts to a threaded hole in the block right behind the engine mount and the rear bracket mounts to an engine mount itself. Bolt up two OBD-I manifold brackets to your block. Both support brackets and the wiring harness bracket are mounted to the engine. In this picture you see where the one of the new manifold support brackets mounts, directly to the block. Once the OBD-I bracket is installed start attaching the wiring harness to it with zip ties. Make sure you torque the knock sensor back to specs. You will also have to loosen the front knock sensor and turn it slightly to clear the bracket. A hole at the bottom of it will need to be enlarged to 8mm and at the top it will need to be bent slightly to clear the bracket near the back of the engine. OBD-I bracket will need to be slightly modified. Remove the bracket and install an OBD-I bracket part number in its place. Once the manifold is out of the way cut the zip ties that hold the wiring harness to the bracket on the engine block. Pop the idle control valve out of the manifold, unbolt your oil separator and start unbolting the intake manifold. Now unbolt the bracket that holds the idle control valve and the oil dipstick tube. Unbolt your throttle body and lay it to the side. Remove your alternator cooling duct and unplug the throttle position sensor as well as the purge valve on some earlier cars the purge valve is mounted to the shock tower so just leave it alone.
Next, remove your air box, intake boot and MAF. To get started, remove the fuel injector cover, unplug the O2 sensors, unbolt the fuel rail and carefully pry the injectors together with the fuel rail out of the manifold. This article should give you a pretty good idea of what is involved in swapping the manifold and all the parts necessary for the swap.
The car is absolutely transformed, the engine feels more natural than before pulling hard all the way to the redline. People claim a torque loss under 4K rpm but I have noticed nothing but gains all across the rev range. Some people reported a 20hp gain from swapping to an OBD-1 manifold. If you are looking for more power out of your BMW M3 or a this is probably the best modification you can do for very little money.
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